Handling fox
Basically just try to get the fat and any heavy red flesh off. Thin flesh will dry and not cause a problem.
I hang the fox upside down to begin skinning it. I found out that if I took it down and hung it from the fur when I got to the head I would end up with a cleaner pelt. When you skin around the head area it is real easy to cut a blood vessel and have running all over. If the body is hanging down the blood runs on it instead of running onto the fur. The weight of the body also helps pull the hide off.
To pull the tail bone take two sticks and place them along side the bone then grip thm with two fingers so that it looks like you are playing tic tac toe with the bone in the center square. Start pulling toward the tip of the tail and the bone should pop out. Watch you face as I have gotten slapped with the bone more than once. They sell a tool made to help pull tail bones out.
On you fox make sure you split the tails all the way to the tip. If you don't there is almost always a drop or two of blood in the tip the will taint and cause the tip to fall off. I tack the tails open on a thin piece of paneling or card board when I dry them.
You don't need to skin out the feet unless you want them on a pelt to be tanned for a wall hanging. Just cut the skin above the foot.
When putting on streachers put them flesh out for 10-12 hours to start the drying process. Then turn them fur out. Don't leave them skin out to long as it is real hard to turn them if they get to dry.
If you are using wood boards make sure that you use a belly wedge between the board and the hide. If not you will have to rewet the pelt to get it off the board.
On some other pelts like mink and rats they want the red flesh left on. Just get the grease off.
With coon it is best for an inexperianced trapper to find a local buyer to buy them as greese coon. Just roll them up and freeze them in a plastic bag until just before you want to sell them. Thaw just enought so the buyer can unroll them to see the fur quality.
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