from what i lookedup over on "thegunzone" the USP's should be full case supported, however i do recommend reading all info at the following link including annotations
http://www.thegunzone.com/glock/glock-kb-faq.html
The .40 is a good round, but it can be picky at times.
you don't have to push it hard for it to perform.
I have personally used a taurus PT101 AF, that i got in 1992.
It has, rough guess, 10k-11k rounds through it, mixed facotry and my own re/handloads, including cast lead.
I do not use brass more than 4 times, no matter if it looks good or not, and i have a few loads that approach max loadings in the manuals, but i only use all new components for those.
I do use AA#5 more often than not. Now i know what that article mentiones, all i can say is I have had no problems with it.
I also have a steyr M40, though i've run mostly factory ammo through it so far, and no cast lead.
other than that, the best i can recommend is to follow the reloading manuals information.
One other tip i would give is this...
start at the bottem of the manuals listing for that bullet weight, work up to the level of performance/accuracy you need, then stop.
YMMV, in my experience my .40 has seemed to do well at about 3/4 of the max charge, but i am looking for accuracy more than fps.
also, AA#2, #7 and #9 work quite well with the .40S&W. though #9 is not recommened for the nosler 150jhp which you stated you wish to use.
http://www.accuratepowder.com/loadda...dard_40cal.htm
is a link directly to accurate arms online reloading data.
most of the reloading data suppliers powder or bullet manf have online references, but if your going to do it, might as well get some manuals too.
remember, attention to detail is paramont.
never stop in the middle of loading a cartridge, finish it, then stop, pickup later if needed, but never, _ever_ stop in the middle of one, sooner or later you'll dbl charge and it is _not_ fun when it goes off.