|
GOB, here's my treatise on home bluing.
Cold bluing is a misnomer. It 's a "cold" process only as compared to the gunsmith's 325-degree hot salt bluing tanks. "Cold" bluing should be applied to warm metal for best results.
After all rust is removed and the metal surface is as smooth as you want (and be finicky about it!), put on eye protection as well as rubber gloves and completely degrease every exposed metal surface. Liberal application of spray brake cleaner works well. Do not touch the metal with bare skin after this step.
Hang the piece from wire hooks.
Now warm the metal with a hair dryer, heat gun or the careful use of a propane torch. You should get it warm enough that a drop of water evaporates almost instantly, but does NOT sizzle.
Now apply your favorite bluing solution or creme with a clean cotton cloth or swabs. Work lengthwise if possible. Keep applying coats of bluing as long as the metal is still warm. If you wish, you can rub lightly with 000 steel wool between coats. Re-heat large pieces if necessary to get more coats applied.
At this point, you may despair because the finish may look mottled and ugly with whitish or grayish patches. Don't panic. That's normal.
Now, while the metal is still warm, use a new clean rag and apply a good non-synthetic gun oil or even clean motor oil.
The finish will almost "pop" to a deep blue-black as soon as the oil hits it. Rub down well and allow to cool.
Done. You will have a finish that lasts as long as factory bluing, looks as good, and is just as tough. Really.
|