[ruger]

The first thing to do when shooting bp shotguns (smoothbores) is to forget about modern loads, i.e. shot size, quantity, and velocity.

Load development for the shotgun is, overall, easier than for a rifle shooting a patched ball, but attention to some principles will yield better results. Here, the versatility of the shotgun is evident, because every shot is essentially a custom handloaded one, the only difference being that it is done in the barrel, not in a shotgun shell.

First, the powder used should, generally, be of a coarser grade than for other black powder guns. Experience shows that the slower ignition and lower peak pressures of the coarse powders give more even and consistent patterns in most guns. Thus, FFg is considered best for 28, 24 and 20 gauge, and most people include 12 gauge in this group. In 11 and 10 gauge, Fg will give good results. FFFg powder can be used in the smaller gauges, but most experienced shooters feel the rapid, high pressures generated tend to 'blow' the pattern.

Second, the amount of powder needs to be balanced against the amount of shot being used. The sport of black powder shooting is rife with 'rules of thumb', many of which turn out to be not at all useful, but one used in black powder shotgunning has stood the test, and works very well in most shotguns. That rule is: Use the same volume of powder and shot. That is easily accomplished by using the same measure to load both shot and powder. A good way to approach this is to decide upon the amount of shot needed, say 1 1/8 oz. for rabbit hunting, set the measure for that, and use it also for the powder. If the game is passing ducks, maybe you want to increase the load to 1 1/2 oz. of shot. If so, apply the same method, and good patterns will result with that combination.

It is generally true that any change in ratio from equal volume loading will affect the pattern, and that can be used to custom tailor loads for different circumstances. Shooting more powder than shot will, in most guns, tend to open the pattern a bit, and if that doesn't create too many 'holes' in it, can be used to mimic the effect of less choke. Conversely, using less powder than shot, by volume, will tend to tighten the pattern, make it more dense.

Set a shorter range limit, about 5-10 yards shorter, depending upon the gun. This will in effect tighten the pattern, since there's less time for the shot to scatter, and more shot will strike the target. It will also mean that more energy is retained by the shot, since it will have slowed less....and energy is equal to weight X velocity.

Use one shot size larger than you would normally use with a modern shotgun in the same situation. The larger shot will retain energy better out to game range. This will, of course, mean fewer shot, but in most situations will not be a telling factor.

You can even mix #4's and #6's to make a duplex load.

I have a friend that uses #7 shot for his turkey load. All his wads are over-shot (o.s.) cards one size larger than bore size 11 ga cards in his 12 ga barrels. Instead of over-powder wad he uses 3 o.s. cards, presses a 4th o.s. cards about 1 1/2" to 2" into the barrel, adds the shot, and then adds "corn meal muffin mix" as a buffer. Tap the sides, add and o.s. card and seats the whole thing. At 25 yards his load is deadly on turkeys.

As for me, I use a 16 gauge trade gun for turkeys, load with 80 grs 2ff, 3 o.s. cards, 1 1/2 ozs. of #5 bismuth, bismuth buffer, 1 o.s. card. Prime with 4f and keep shots at 20-25 yds. I use bismuth because it is harder than lead and I don't worry about fliers due to the shot scrapping the barrel and loosing their shape. A nickel plated shot would probably work but I didn't have any when I started patterning my loads.

I had better stop now and catch my breath!!