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Well, Ruger #1s are known to be temperamental.
![]() Seriously though, for a .243, that's lousy. FWIW, Ruger considers 2" at 50 yards to be accurate for a #1. ![]() The first thing I would try is another scope. I don't care if the scope on the gun is brand new, try another one. I ahd a rifle that was supposed to be quite accurate, and after a lot of work and money spent, it still didn't shoot worth a damn. I replaced the brand new scope, and the gun was a tackdriver. I sent the scope back to the manufacturor and they foxed it up good as new. Next, I would look very closely at the style of shooting you or your friend use. Ruger #1s are very touchy about how they are shot from the bench. Several methods work. Placement on the sandbags can be critical. If one time the tip of the forearm is on the bag, and them the middle is on the bag, accuracy will be terrible. Be very consistant in placement on the bag. Some get better results by placing the gun so as to have the front of the trigger guard against the bag. This does work, but has always seemed a bit awkward to me. For me, I prefer to hold the forearm in my left hand (assuming you're right handed) and my hand resting on the bag. You can play a bit with the tension of the forearm screw too. I remove it and put a small "O" ring on mine, then tighten it up fairly tight. I try a group. If it falls within my standards for the cartridge, then I leave it alone. If not, I back it off about a quarter turn and try again. You can probably back of as much as a full turn, maybe a hair more and the "O" ring will keep the screw in place. You can try a shim at the front of the forearm as well to increase the pressure a bit, but I don't hold much hope for that. Still, it's worth a try. You didn't say what bullet or load you were shooting. Most of the Ruger #1 rifles I own have fairly long throats. If you're shooting one of the lighter weight varmint style bullets, the jump from the case to the rifling may be too far. I had one #1 in 7x57 that had a two in throat, and nothing shot well in it. That one went back to Ruger and they put a new barrel on the gun. Anyway, try my suggestions and see if they help at all. I'm responsible for the care and feedding of 16 Ruger #1 rifles and one custom built on a #1 action. If none of them work, I'd be inclined to contact Ruger with your problem. They will probably have you send the gun back to them for inspection and repair if needed. My next comment is one you can take to the bank. Do not make any alterations on that rifle. Someone will probably suggest you free float the barrel. If you do that and have to send it back for any reason, Ruger will not make any repairs until you replace the foearm at a fairly high price. I once bought a used Ruger 77 that the previous owner had free floated the barrel. The extractor would not extract. Ruger said to send it back. They notified me that they would not repair the rifle unless I bought a new stock. Now, what in hell that had to do with a bad extractor is beyond me, but that is their policy. I told them to send the gun back. I picked up a Mauser extractor and fitted it to the gun and it worked just fine. Good luck on making that rifle shoot. Ruger #1s can be addictive. I bought my first one in 1975 and am always looking for another one. Let me know just what level of accuracy you'e looking for? I have a couple of loads that shoot very well in my #1A chambered to the .243. Paul B. |
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