Im back for more info this time on steel shot

[Mr. 16 gauge]

You need a wad within a wad to use as a spacer in your plastic wads. 20 gauge for 12 gauge wads 28 for 20 and so on. They look like they are made out of a lot of different materails. What is the best in your opinions?

Not all your loads would need a spacer; only those whose payload is less that what the original wad was designed for, i.e. a 1 oz load in a 1 1/8 oz wad. As far as "which is better", most loads will tell you whether you need cork, felt, wool, ect. I go with what the load calls for.

As far as thickness I guess you have to experiment until you get a good looking finished product.

Go with what the load states; if it states 1/8" felt wad, then that's what you go with.

Now on top I have read about shot cards, are they necessary?

If the load calls for it, use them.....if not, don't (BTW: none of my loads use them).

I have also read the best powder is alliant steel, any thoughts?

IMHO, I have found this to be true, although I have used Blue dot and SR4756 successfully as well. However, STEEL was specifically designed for use in steel waterfowl loads.

Do you need special hulls and plastic wads for steel?

Special wads? Yes....you can't use lead shot wads, and must use wads that are much thicker to prevent scoring of your barrel. Also, you shot charge should sit BELOW the level of the shot cup; not above as some lead ones do. The wad is there to protect the barrel from the shot; not vice versa like with lead. Special hulls? No, not really....but you can forget about using your AA or STS hulll for steel shotshell reloads; straight walled hulls such as the Federal Gold medal and Fiocchi are better suited for reloading steel.

I understand that dropping steel shot and steel powder is pretty inconsistant and it should be measured and then put in the hull. I am using a mec junior and it has been great so far but measuring by hand is not an issue I have the rcbs powder dispenser and scale combo and it is great.

STEEL powder is quite bulky and large flaked, so it doesn't flow well through a meter.....I hand weigh every charge, as well as the shot charge. Steel shot tends to be larger and bridging in the drop tube is more of a problem that with lead.

what is a good steel shot book to get so i dont have to keep bothering you all?

It's not a bother; that's why these boards exist. However, a very good reference is "Status of Steel" from Ballistic products. You can find it at:

www.ballisticproducts.com

Oh i am thinking of loading 12 and 20 gauge # 4's.

12 gauge 4's probably won't be an issue; in 20 gauge, depending on the wad, payload, & shell length, it might. The loading data given in "Status of steel" will usually tell you the maximum pellet size for any given load.

I hope I've answered your questions; I will sign off by saying that reloading steel shot can be very unforgiving, esp. when one starts substituting components. You can't get away with it like you can with lead, so I use the specific components listed as they are listed. Just keep that in mind while reloading.

Good luck, have fun, and don't hesitate to ask if you have questions.