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Old 05-30-2011, 12:47 PM
skeet skeet is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Northwest Wyoming
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I have many of the wooden Midway blocks..many. My cure for them with short cases was to run them through the planer When I got them the right depth I just stopped and marked 'em for the caliber. I used some for the 380 I've not loaded the 32 ACP in years. As far as the plastic ones 270 man..get some plain ol modeling clay..see how much it takes to shorten the holes a bit and fill 'em all up to that depth. I did that years ago for the 32 ACP..but have lost the thing sometime in the past. If the holes are square cut make you a little square piece of wood out of scrap and push that ol clay right into the hole. If round use a close sized dowel.. I use progressives for handguns most of the time except for high intensity rounds like the 44 mag 500 Smith etc when loading to the max area. In fact I got a Dillon Square Deal B Friday set up for 9mm so will probably use it for the little bit of 9mm I load. It WAS cheap...like me
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Old 05-30-2011, 02:20 PM
dovehunter dovehunter is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2005
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My loading blocks are the old plastic Herters' types. They made separate ones for rifle and pistol. The holes are round and the depth of the pistol block is just about right for everything for which I load but the 9mm. The recesses are a little deep for the 9mm but I can get the cases out with my fingers as long as I am careful. I still do all my loading with a single-stage RCBS press too. It's the only press I've ever had and I've had it now for about 40 yrs. Never seen the need to upgrade.
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